How to polish shoes? How to clean them?

Taking care of your shoes is not just a "duty"... it's a pleasure! A small ritual, more regular than long, extends the life of a pair of shoes and keeps them looking the way they did on day one.

The right way to clean them changes with the material: smooth leather is polished, suede and nubuck are brushed dry, fabric sneakers are treated differently again. This guide brings together the correct gestures for each, plus the small accessories that make a daily difference.

Small daily gestures for shoe care

First of all, it must be said that small daily gestures can make a big difference.

For example, the daily use of a shoehorn prevents that unpleasant wear and heel deformation that we often cause when we force our foot in to put shoes on.

If the shoehorn is a convenient tool to use when putting shoes on, the shoe tree or boot shaper is another essential accessory for the proper preservation of your footwear.

The shoe tree, preferably made of aromatic cedar wood, absorbs the moisture left by the foot overnight and keeps the upper under the correct tension, protecting fit, appearance and durability. The boot shaper does the same job on the shaft of boots, keeping it taut and flawless even after long periods of disuse: the two accessories can be used together.

How to polish shoes with a smooth leather upper

Smooth leather is the only material, among those used in shoes, that truly takes a polish: its compact surface holds the cream and gives back that classic shine. To polish your leather shoes, whether sporty or elegant, first clean the upper of everyday dust and dirt with a dry cloth and a clean bristle brush.

Once the dirt is removed, apply polish of the matching colour to the upper, a little at a time: for coloured leathers always look for the matching shade, or fall back on neutral polish. Spread the cream evenly with the brush, applying light pressure, then let it rest a few minutes so it can penetrate the pores of the leather.

After a few minutes, brush vigorously (without overdoing it) to remove any surface residue, repeating until the leather has absorbed the cream evenly. Finish with a cotton cloth, rubbing energetically for the final shine: the same treatment can be extended to the visible part of the leather sole, the heel and the welt, if present.

How to clean suede and nubuck shoes

Suede and nubuck share the same velvety feel, but come from a different process and need different care. Suede is made by buffing the flesh side of the skin (the side that was against the animal's flesh): it is more delicate, and should only be cleaned with a soft-bristle or rubber brush, passed dry in the direction of the nap. Ordinary leather polish should never be used on suede: it flattens the nap and leaves marks.

Nubuck, on the other hand, is a full-grain leather, usually calfskin, buffed on the grain side: the fibre underneath is more compact, so it tolerates slightly firmer brushes and dedicated stain erasers, which should be avoided on suede. On both, the first move against a fresh stain is to blot it (never rub) with a dry cloth: rubbing straight away spreads the stain instead of absorbing it.

Good-quality suede treated for winter wear is one of the most widely used leathers precisely because it's water-repellent: the real problem isn't clean water, but puddle water, which is often loaded with road salt, dirt and oily residue that leave marks that are hard to remove. If your shoes get wet, rinse them with clean water, brush them and let them dry away from direct heat sources (never on a radiator), then revive the nap with the right brush, always in the same direction.

How to clean fabric and leather sneakers

Sneakers often combine several materials on the same upper: fabric, leather and rubber trims. For everyday dust, a dry soft brush is enough; for tougher stains on fabric, use a cloth dampened with lukewarm water and a mild soap, never the washing machine, which distorts the shape and can loosen the bond between sole and upper. White rubber trims are treated separately, with a dedicated eraser or baking soda on a damp cloth, so the dirt doesn't spread onto the fabric nearby.

Frequently asked questions

Can suede get wet in the rain?

Let's clear up a myth here. The answer is yes, and that's actually one of the reasons suede is so widely used in winter shoes: good-quality suede treated for winter wear is water-repellent. The problem isn't clean water but puddle water, which often contains road salt, dirt and oily residue and leaves dark marks. If your shoes get wet, rinse them with clean water, brush them and let them dry away from direct heat sources: this applies to treated winter-grade suede, not necessarily to summer shoes.

Do nubuck and suede clean the same way?

No: nubuck tolerates firmer brushes and dedicated stain erasers better, because the fibre underneath is more compact; on suede it's best to stick to soft brushes, so as not to damage the nap.

How often should smooth leather shoes be polished?

There's no fixed rule: it depends on use. As a practical guide, a pair worn 2-3 times a week benefits from a polish every 15-20 days; it's worth noting that polishing with a nourishing cream not only restores the upper's good looks but also keeps the leather soft, hydrated and healthy.

Why shouldn't I force my foot into the shoe instead of using a proper shoehorn?

Forcing your foot in without a shoehorn crushes and deforms the heel of the shoe as well as rubbing against the edge of the upper: it's the most common cause of early wear to the heel counter, the stiff part that supports the heel.

Can sneakers be washed in the washing machine?

It's not recommended: hot water and the drum's motion can loosen the bond between sole and upper and distort the shape of the shoe. A cloth dampened with mild soap, as described above, works better.

Find out more

If you want to understand how your shoes are made, read our guide to Blake, Goodyear and Bologna constructions. To find your way among the different moccasin styles, there's our guide to moccasin types, and a chapter dedicated to caring for full-grain leather in our guide to Sebago Classic Dan moccasins.