JP/DAVID: loafers, lace-ups and ankle boots for men
A loafer is the low shoe with no fastening, its upper closed by a panel stitched across the instep: you step into it and it holds by fit, so the size needs to be chosen more precisely than on a lace-up. On this page the loafers come in smooth leather and in suede, with a 2.5-centimetre heel and a round toe; where it is fitted, the instep is crossed by the horsebit, the metal piece shaped like a snaffle that comes from horse tack and became a style detail.
Lace-ups differ in how the quarters — the two side flaps carrying the eyelets — meet the upper. On a derby they are stitched on top and stay open: the shoe widens and tightens, which is why it is the shape that forgives a high instep. On an oxford they are stitched underneath, forming a continuous line that sits closer and lower on the foot. The Norwegian derby adds a visible seam running along the edge of the upper, which stiffens the profile and suits less formal settings.
The ankle boots cover three different closures, and the choice depends on how much you want to adjust the fit. The Beatle boot pulls on thanks to two elastic gussets at the sides and does not adjust at all; the lace-up boot closes with laces and, where a side zip is also fitted, opens without unlacing; the chelsea boot with decorative perforations on the toe works like the Beatle boot but with a more elaborate pattern. Shafts stay low, at the ankle, and the heel holds between 2.5 and 4 centimetres.
Care changes with the material, and it is worth setting up from day one. Smooth leather wants a nourishing cream two or three times a season and a dry cloth after rain; hand-antiqued leather carries shading applied by pad that a pigmented cream would flatten, so it takes neutral wax; suede is brushed dry and never treated with creams. On every model the leather insole absorbs the day's moisture, and a rest day between wears extends the life of the shoe more than any product does. For other low shapes, start from the men's loafers category.
