Which men's shoes stand up to autumn and winter
A men's autumn winter shoe is recognisable by how far it closes and how well it lifts the foot off the ground: an upper covering the instep or the ankle, a lining, a thicker patterned sole and more weight than a summer shoe. In men's autumn winter shoes the sole matters as much as the upper: it is what keeps the foot away from cold wet asphalt, and the tread pattern decides how much grip is left on damp cobbles and fallen leaves.
The ankle boot is the family that covers the most winter days, and it is told apart by how it fastens. The chelsea has no lacing: two elastic side panels and a pull tab at the back, it goes on in one movement and keeps the cleanest line. The laced ankle boot fastens above the anklebone, so it adjusts across the instep and holds better underfoot. The brogue version adds a punched toe cap and pulls the model towards the formal end. This family runs from treated leathers that lighten along the creases, as on MOMA, to slimmer shapes with long lacing, as on Green George. Every high lace-up is gathered in men's lace-up ankle boots.
Among low closed shoes the difference lies in the lacing. The derby has open quarters stitched over the vamp and leaves room across the instep, so it takes a heavy sock; the Oxford has them closed and stitched underneath, draws a cleaner line and is the dressier of the two; the double monk drops laces altogether and adjusts on two straps. Classic shapes sit here alongside heavier-soled models — the first tradition well represented by Jerold Wilton, the second by Fabi. The full range is in men's lace-up shoes.
The sneaker does not disappear in winter: it changes materials. Canvas gives way to suede, nubuck and technical nylon, the sole grows taller and gains lugs, and a lining appears where summer had none. The range runs from bulky soles with suede panels, as on Hogan, to high uppers in heavier suede, as on Barracuda. In both cases the thing to look at is how closed the shoe is at the front, because that is where water gets in.
Winter leathers are chosen by how much water they take. Tumbled and antiqued leather hide scuffs and cope with light rain; suede is warm and light but needs a protective spray before first wear and brushing only when dry; nubuck sits in between. On construction: a welt joins upper, insole and sole through a strip of leather running around the shoe, weighs more but can be resoled several times, while cemented construction is lighter and more flexible from day one. Pawelk's is recognisable for its soft, lightly structured builds, Sebago for models with a nautical lineage in oiled leather.
Try a winter fit with the sock you will actually wear, not barefoot: half a size between a summer sock and heavy wool is normal, and on an ankle boot that half size shows across the instep before it shows at the toe. A lined shoe does not give the way an unlined one does, so take the right size straight away. If the shoe goes on without loosening the laces or pulling the back tab, it will be tight once the heavy sock is on.
