Which men's shoes to choose for spring summer
A men's spring summer shoe is defined by how it is built: a perforated or unlined upper, reduced lining, a thin flexible sole and less overall weight than a winter shoe. In men's spring summer shoes the missing lining is the difference you notice first: the leather sits directly against the foot, the shoe takes its shape within a few weeks and air passes where a lambskin lining would stop it.
The loafer is the low shoe without lacing, slipped on rather than fastened, and it is the most summery family in a man's wardrobe. The penny loafer has a strap with a slot across the instep and stays the most understated; the version with a metal bit carries a suit; the boat shoe is a loafer with a pale non-slip sole and a lace running around the collar, designed for a wet deck and comfortable on pavement too. Unlined, suede and leather versions are all among the men's loafers.
A men's sandal is chosen by how much it supports the arch. The style with adjustable straps and a contoured footbed holds the foot still and adapts to the volume that changes through the day; the single-band slider goes on hands-free but offers no lateral support, so it suits short distances; the flat thong is the least structured of all. The widths and band heights available are gathered in the men's sandals.
Among closed shoes, construction matters more than shape. A canvas or perforated suede sneaker breathes where smooth leather closes; a lightened lace-up keeps the formal line but sheds weight from sole and lining. Between the lace-ups, the derby has open quarters stitched over the vamp and leaves more room across the instep, so it takes the swollen end-of-day foot better; the Oxford has them closed and stitched underneath, draws a cleaner line and is the dressier of the two.
Construction tells you how long the shoe will last. A welt joins upper, insole and sole through a strip of leather running around the shoe: it weighs more, but it lets the shoe be resoled several times. Cemented construction is lighter and more flexible from day one and is what most summer shoes use. On leathers: suede is cool but dislikes water, tumbled leather hides scuffs, nubuck stands up better than suede, canvas is the lightest and the easiest to wash.
Try the fit of a summer shoe at the end of the day and with the sock you will actually wear, often none at all. An unlined style gives about half a size in the first weeks, so take it snug but not tight; a lace-up with reduced lining settles less and should be the right size straight away. On a loafer the critical point is the instep, not the length: if the strap lets air in as you walk, the size is too big even when the toe looks right.
