Cph686 calf black/black

Women's ankle boot by Copenhagen Studios, model CPH686, in black calf leather. The Chelsea boot is the lace-free ankle boot, recognizable by its side elastic gussets that allow it to be put on: you slip it on by pulling the back tab, and the elastic does the rest, adapting to the instep.

The leather is full-grain calfskin, with the natural grain left visible: the surface isn't as uniform as corrected and printed leather, and every pair has a slightly different pattern. It's a leather that polishes with wear instead of wearing out.

The sole is the part that defines the model: a rubber platform sole with a block heel, deep-lugged tread and a bumper strip that runs along the entire perimeter to protect the edge of the upper. The structure gives distributed height — the lift is also present under the forefoot, so the actual drop between heel and toe stays contained and the walk remains stable.

The insole is padded leather and is removable, so it can be replaced or taken out to make room for a personal orthotic. The CPNHGN logo is stamped in gold on the outer side: it's the only highlight on an entirely black shoe, and it's the detail that sets it apart from an anonymous ankle boot of the same silhouette.

With straight jeans or wide-leg trousers, the ankle boot should be worn outside, over the hem: it's a model that needs room to be seen and doesn't work squeezed under long trousers. With a knee-length skirt, a dress or opaque tights, the total black elongates the leg and lets the sole take on all the volume.

Copenhagen Studios shoes are designed in Copenhagen and made in Europe; this model is handmade in Portugal, with leathers sourced from family-run Italian tanneries.

• Upper in calf leather
• Padded, removable leather insole
• Non-slip rubber sole
• Side elastic gussets and back pull tab
• Platform sole with block heel